I’ve been reading this amazing book – The Wave, by Susan Casey. I’m gripped! It’s research into understanding ocean waves, from regular moon pulling currents, to random, ship-splitting, gargantuan rogue waves. And about how surfers use and interact with the ocean, especially now there’s a $500,000.00 price tag out there from Billabong (world’s no. 1 surf brand) for the first person (or nutter!) to surf a 100ft wave.